Mountains to Sea: 20 nice issues to do within the Munster Vales
Between the satnav bringing us by a mountain vary on the shortest, however not all the time most accessible, route, a poor telephone sign and an irritated spouse, we might been unfashionably late for nearly all of our actions to date. Now we had axes.
Two hours of frustration had been unleashed as we channelled our interior Jack Nicholson, picked up our weapons and went face to face in an axe-throwing competitors at Ballyhass Lakes in Co Cork. Three bull’s-eyes in a row and I used to be perched on an enormous wood throne sporting a unicorn masks as a reward. That’s as bizarre because it sounds.
Simply as bizarre was the pure satisfaction of launching an axe at a wood goal, therapeutic even. “Two folks as soon as caught photos of their exes on the goal,” revealed our teacher, Jack, as my wide-eyed spouse put the ending touches to her REDRUM engraving.
I’ve a sense ex-throwing might develop into a factor.
Axe-throwing at Ballyhass Mallow in Ballyhoura Nation
Ballyhass Lakes was considered one of our final stops on a “couple’s journey” vacation across the Munster Vales, highlighting the world’s 5 mountain ranges – the Comeraghs, Knockmealdowns, Galtees, Ballyhouras and Nagles – and heritage websites.
For those who’ve 4 days to spare earlier than the climate turns, here is methods to do the 4 counties of the Munster Vales.
Day 1 – Waterford
Gold coast: The Copper Coast Geopark in Waterford
First up was considered one of Eire’s best-preserved ‘huge homes’, Curraghmore Home (curraghmorehouse.ie), in Portlaw, the primary part of which was constructed within the 1170s. Our information took us by grand reception rooms, stunningly adorned by famend architect James Wyatt. The French carpet beneath our toes had been in situ because the 1780s.
“Ought to we be strolling on this?” an American vacationer requested. However it was identified that Curraghmore is a “residing museum”, one during which Lord and Girl Waterford nonetheless reside.
Additionally open to the general public is the wondrous Shell Home (1754), an uncut stone constructing within the type of a miniature Greek church that homes hundreds of shells from around the globe, embedded into the partitions with a combination of ox blood, urine and hooves.
Half an hour south, we hit the breathtaking Copper Coast Geopark, the place the number of rock has given rise to a various panorama. We uncover the secluded Trá na mBó, a cove paying homage to The Seaside’s Maya Bay, and our information Brian factors out the 18th-century copper-mine holes nonetheless seen within the rock face.
A 15-minute drive brings us to Durrow automotive park to fulfill the Greenway Man, Garvan Cummins, for a cycle alongside the Waterford Greenway: the off-road bike and strolling monitor that stretches 46km from Waterford metropolis to Dungarvan. Personalised fairy doorways add a magical contact to the route both facet of the 400m-long Ballyvoyle Tunnel earlier than we cross the Ballyvoyle Viaduct, which was blown up in 1922 in the course of the Civil Conflict.
We depart Durrow clutching a bottle of Garvan’s Greenway Man craft beer and head for Hanora’s Cottage (hanorascottage.com) within the Nire Valley, Ballymacarbry, a household dwelling/eatery/B&B well-known for its private contact and bread recipes.
Three programs later and it was time to recharge within the idyllic Nire Valley Eco Camp (nirevalleyecocamp.com) – self-catering, sustainable cabins with panoramic views of the valley under. As we awake to a continental breakfast delivered to our balcony on an excellent morning by house owners Paul and Ruth Deegan, it is apparent this gem is not going to remain hidden for lengthy.
Day 2 – Tipperary
Cahir Fortress, Co Tipperary. Picture: Fáilte Eire
Carrick-on-Suir is buzzing in anticipation of the Premier County’s Championship conflict with Laois as we arrive at Ormond Fortress, an Elizabethan manor home with two built-in 15th-century towers. That includes a number of the best ornamental plasterwork within the nation, it was the house of the 10th Earl of Ormond, Thomas Butler, who was supposedly Queen Elizabeth’s bit on the facet.
Throughout city, it was time to check the Waterford/Tipp rivalry as we rented bicycles from Blueway Bike Rent to deal with the county’s model of the Greenway, which stretches for 21km alongside the River Suir. If the cycle path nonetheless wants some work, the surroundings is picture-perfect.
We refuel with a carvery on the Carraig Lodge (carraighotel.com) earlier than making what is meant to be a 50-minute drive to Galtee Fortress Woods for a yoga stroll with Yoga Walks Eire. Two hours, just a few arguments and a plethora of expletives directed at Google Maps later, we’re desperately in want of some tree cuddles.
Our instructors, Caroline and Joan, information us by lush forestry and rolling hills, stopping to soak up the sound of the freshwater streams and surroundings, whereas transitioning right into a Downward Canine, Salute to the Solar or clearing the thoughts of destructive power with a Sa Ta Na Ma chant. A hug from a tree and all is true with the world; our marriage, and street journey, saved.
Caroline offers us instructions to Fortress Gardens B&B (castlegardensbnb.com) in Cahir, its exterior stone partitions, triangular home windows, tree-like columns and Secret Backyard Gate like one thing out of a fairytale. It supplies the proper base to discover the city’s eateries, the standout of which is Lava Rock (lavarockrestaurant.com).
This award-winning BYO is on the dear facet, however what you save on booze is price forking out on the fantastic dining-quality meals, the spotlight of which is pastry chef Geraldine O’Donnell’s dessert of ardour fruit jelly and vanilla yoghurt, marinated strawberries, strawberry streusel, calamansi, orange sorbet and madeleine.
Day three – Tipperary/Limerick/Cork
Swiss cottage
After a night in navigational purgatory, the satnav will get an opportunity to redeem itself in what ought to be a five-minute drive to the Swiss Cottage, solely to fail once more by directing us to a locked gate. A fast rendition of Sa Ta Na Ma and we’re blissfully again on the street, a state that is heightened by the enchanting Swiss Cottage (heritageireland.ie).
Constructed within the early 1800s to a design by architect John Nash (who labored on Buckingham Palace), the cottage’s thatched roof and interiors have been painstakingly restored, the salon that includes one of many first commercially produced Parisian wallpapers.
For instructions to the Ballyhoura Mountains (visitballyhoura.com) our subsequent vacation spot, we resort to watching a canine spinning round in circles earlier than stopping to poop (they like a north/south axis). The journey to the Ballyhoura Horse Trekking centre is seamless; sadly, the identical cannot be stated for my spouse’s transition from automotive to horseback, although she’s been partnered with an outdated light kind named Sparkles. Nerves fray and no quantity of kundalini can calm the scenario. She abandons saddle after about 90 seconds.
My affable instructors John Joe and Kelsey pair me with Montana, a sturdy brown pinto, and after just a few ideas, we’re cantering by the mountains to breathtaking views. John Joe remembers how Kim Kardashian had booked to do a trek with him throughout her honeymoon, solely to cancel on the final minute: “Your man [Kanye West] was upset concerning the Wi-Fi sign!”
As my knees and butt-cheeks begin to burn, John Joe’s decided to go away a long-lasting impression: “Quicken the tempo there – we would like Gavin to really feel it within the morning.”
My undercarriage lets out a tepid ‘yay’ again within the softer confines of the automotive and we gingerly cease off at Molly’s restaurant in Kilfinane for a hearty lunch to set us up for a day at Ballyhass Lakes (ballyhass.ie), the place thrillseekers can select from a bunch of actions such because the aforementioned axe-throwing, 160m zip line, kayaking, abseiling, archery and cable wakeboarding.
Wakeboarding at Ballyhass Lakes in Cork
After relinquishing our axes, we try the latter, which is actually waterskiing on a snowboard. A couple of amusing faceplants every into the lake and we’re each up on our boards after about 5 minutes – the fast studying curve testomony to the overhead cable system.
Fortunately, our subsequent cease for dinner at Springfort Corridor Lodge (springfort-hall.com) is just 15 minutes away. The home could date again to the 18th century however the resort’s menu is in step with the ever-growing must cater for all dietary necessities. There are gluten-free choices aplenty for my spouse (coeliac), and my spicy seafood linguine pleasantly restores my style buds after just a few pints of Ballyhass lake water.
That night, we keep at Park South B&B (park-south.com), the place host Eva greets us with a welcoming chat, tea and home made scones with jam. Her substantial full Irish the following morning retains chatter within the breakfast room to a minimal as we pack up and depart for Doneraile Park.
Day four – Cork
Doneraile, Co Cork. Picture: MunsterVales.com
At first look, Doneraile’s Major Road is like another: a splattering of pubs interrupt the rows of conventional dwellings, outlets and a petroleum station. However by an not easily seen arch lies the city’s hidden gem, and an unlimited one at that.
Doneraile Park contains a ‘huge home’ – Doneraile Courtroom, constructed within the late 1600s and solely not too long ago reopened to the general public after 50 years and a €1.6m restoration job – tea rooms, sweeping parkland vistas and probably the most distinctive 17th-century gardens on the earth, as a consequence of their absolutely intact state.
A stroll by 400 years of gardens and historical bushes, and we’re in want of sustenance, which is offered by the close by Café Townhouse, its gorgeous old-world décor a match for the fare on provide.
The homeward journey beckons and we each depart feeling we have carried out wonders for Leinster/Munster relations. As for our marriage?
We’ll all the time have axe-throwing.
What to pack
A good satnav! Whereas Google Maps robotically highlights the quickest route, it is not all the time probably the most accessible. We ended up at locked gates to estates and it tried to deliver us by the Galtees as an alternative of round them. Carry climbing boots and bug repellent for the yoga stroll and a towel for wakeboarding, too.
Do it
Waterford Greenway. Picture: Pól Ó Conghaile
After biking a part of the Greenway from Durrow to Dungarvan, you may depart your bikes with considered one of Garvan’s linked-in companions and spend the night within the coastal city, which is all the time buzzing on a pleasant day. Revellers line the pedestrian space close to the pier with drinks in hand and there are some terrific pubs (Merry’s and The Native) and locations to eat (together with chef Paul Flynn’s Tannery and 360 Cookhouse). Gavin was a visitor of the Munster Vales.
For extra, see munstervales.com.
Learn extra:
10 most uncommon adventures in Eire – from bathroom challenges to axe-throwing
Weekend Journal